San Blas Spanish School
San Blas Spanish School is where I took my 8 week Spanish Immersion Course. The reason I went to Cusco was to learn spanish at this school. They have one day classes if you just want to brush up, One week classes if you want to jump in with both feet, and as many one week classes as you like. I took eight weeks. Four weeks with a group and four weeks of private instruction. They also arranged for my family stays and my volunteer service at Ccochahuasi Animal Sanctuary.
Ccochahuasi Animal Sanctuary
I highly recommend a visit to the Ccochahuasi Animal Sanctuary. I volunteered there for 9 weeks while I attended my Spanish Immersion program at the San Blas Spanish School. Ccochahuasi is an amazing animal sanctuary that takes great care of their animals. The rehabilitate and release when possible. Recently a condor and a hawk were released back into the wild. During your visit to Ccochahuasi you will get up close with Andean Condors. Sometimes you can do a special tour and get close to the monkeys too. It all depends on how the monkeys are that day. Ask for Albert. (At this time Feb 20, 2020, there is a bit of infighting in the family that owns the sanctuary. The animals are suffering because of this. It is still a good place to visit, but until they get their problems in order the quality of care is declining).
Saqsayhuaman Ruin
Saqsayhuaman (pronounced sexy woman) is my favorite ruin. It is above San Blas neighborhood in Cusco. Cusco is shaped like a puma. Saqsayhuaman is the head of the puma. It has the largest rocks and Incredible views. You can easily spend a couple hours here. There are two main halves. See them both. One has a large perfect circle on top of walls of giant stones. The other side looks like an amphitheater with large rock slides you can slide down (at your own risk). You will need to purchase a ticket for several ruins to enter Saqsayhuaman. There is a 70 soles ticket for 4 ruins and a 130 soles ticket that includes all 16 ruins and museums. You have 10 days to use your ticket. 130 soles is about $45. It’s a good deal. Don’t try to see all 16. See what you want the most. In my opinion, I liked Saqsayhuaman better than Machu Picchu. But MP is amazing and also a must see.
Machu Picchu
Machu Picchu. It is the historical reason most people come to Cusco. It is one of many many ruins. It is well preserved, but others are too. It is deep in the mountains with a beautiful hike. I have hiked both the “Inca Trail” and “Salkantay.” I preferred Salkantay. That was a much more beautiful hike through stunning terrain to areas unlike any other. The hike is worth every step. It is also easier to get on a Salkantay hike because it is longer and you do not need a permit for the hike. Inca Trail needs a permit and has limited number of people who can be on the trail per day. You will see other hikers on the Inca Trail every day all day. I rarely saw anyone else on Salkantay hike. You can also take a train to MP and back, but the hikes are worth it. An additional hike while at MP is Huaynu Picchu. Huaynu Picchu towers over MP. You need reservations and a special permit to go to the top. Your tour company needs to book for you. Ask for Huaynu Picchu when you book your tour. It is the best view of MP and the entire valley. No special skills needed except nerves of steel since the stairs are steep with sheer cliff drops.
At the base of MP is a town called Agua Calientes. It’s a tourist trap. It’s the gateway city to MP so one would expect it to be a tourist trap. At the top of the town is a little known hot spring fed spa. You walk through an epic sculpture garden that was carved on site by various Peruvian sculptors then you arrive at the Agua Calientes Hot Springs. There is a safe place to leave your stuff, bathrooms with showers (shower first), several pools with various levels of heat, and ice cold waterfalls. After a 4 or 5 day hike, this soak is heavenly.
I recommend Alpaca Expeditions for your tour to MP, Huaynu Picchu, and Agua Calientes. Alpaca Expeditions is glamping. They carry all your stuff except what you need on your hike from place to place. They set up your tent. They cook delicious meals 3 times a day. They provide snacks throughout your day. And they provide a knowledgeable guide who understands the history of the region and its geology.
Qorichancha
Qorichancha is a museum and ruin in Cusco. There are actual mummies in the museum. There are two Qoricancha museums. One is in the convent that took over the inca temple. This museum is independent. You will need to buy a ticket to get in. The other museum is underground and where the mummies were originally found. If you purchased the 130 soles ticket for the 16 ruins and museums, then you can visit the underground Qorichancha. Qoricancha and Saqsayhuaman are the two most important places for the Inca of Cusco. Saqsayhuaman is the head of the puma. Qorichancha is the genitals. Cusco is the Imperial Capital of the Inca Empire.
All the churches have great art in them. Qoricancha is one of the best religious art collections. And the main cathedral at Plaza De Armas is epic. I spent Easter Mass at the cathedral.
Planetarium Cusco
Their location is just above Saqsayhuaman. You have to reserve your spot and they will pick you up at your residence and return you after the tour. It is a great way to learn about the southern sky before you hike to MP. The planetarium is a family owned business of people passionate about the science and mythology of the night sky.
Cosmos Inka
The full name of the museum: COSMOS INKA – CENTRO DE INTERPRETACION DE LA ARQUITECTURA COSMICA EN MACHUPICCHU Y LA CULTURA INKA. That is a mouthful. This is the life work of Dante Genaro Salas Delgado. He is an Arqueostronomer. He studies the ancient ways of reading the sky. I was honored to tour the museum just before opening to the public. The museum is a plethora of information about how the Inca built their cities, temples, and empire in alignment with the stars in the sky.
Street Vendors
San Blas Square next to the San Blas Church is where all the artists hang out. There is a market every Saturday next to the church. Above the fountain in the square is where the street vendors display their stuff. I prefer to purchase from the street vendors but also got stuff at the Saturday market. Watch out, the police come through on a regular basis to make the street vendors move. But don’t worry. They will be back shortly as soon as the police leave.
My favorite of all the street artists was Luna. He created designs like none other. He does macrame designs in both cotton thread and metal thread. All his stones are real. He is very original and a super sweet human being that I enjoy supporting.
Surreal Art
Surreal Art can be found by local artist Renee Durand Chacon. His studio is located on Calle Pumacurco 473. Not far from the main square. When he is not in his village doing ceremony, he is in his studio painting. Spanish speaking only. I stumbled upon his studio while looking for a plant medicine museum. He was painting outside his studio.
Learn Quechuan Weaving
Learn How to Weave using traditional Quechuan methods. This is one of my favorite Airbnb Experiences and one of my top 5 Cusco experiences. Tami picked me up in Cusco, took me to Pisac above the town to a little village, fed me a delicious meal with ingredients they grew behind the house, tea from herbs they grew, and taught me how to do a simple pattern weaving a bracelet. But first I had to learn how to cut the wool and spin it into thread, then wash it, dye it, and then I tried to weave a simple pattern. Then I looked at the scarves they create and stood in awe.
Bonbonao Chocolates
Bonbonao is my favorite chocolatier. I tried every chocolatier I could find in Cusco. Bonbonao had the best texture and flavor of chocolate. They are single source, single country chocolate. That means the Cacao and the entire process to get it in a bar you can eat, happens in one country. Peru. Ask for Paul. They teach chocolate making classes and Peruvian cooking classes.
Favorite Vegan Food
Green Point is the best vegan restaurant in the world. It is in San Blas on Calle Carmen Bajo. Everything on the menu is great. There is a lunch special every Monday to Friday that is 18 soles about $6. You get a salad bar, soup, entrée, and dessert. Everything is organic and prepared safely.
Favorite Alpaca Burger
Chakruna Native Burners has the best Alpaca burgers in town. You will find them in San Blas on the left side of the church. They also have beef, chicken, and vegetarian options available. Their fried potatoes are crisp and fresh. But the best part are the homemade sauces. The garlic sauce and the chili sauce are my favorites. You get a little of each one and then you can ask for more of the one you liked the most…or two.
Best Food Value
My favorite place to eat is Mercado de San Blas. It is an organic market with food vendors. All are good. My favorite is Sumac (on the inside corner in the middle). For 5 soles you get big soup, and entrée for lunch. About $1.50 US.
Fresh Organic Juice
Also in Mercado de San Blas are the stalls for fresh juice and sandwiches. Betty makes my favorite juices. For 5 soles you can get a fresh juice or extraction. I liked getting carrot, ginger, orange, and celery. But many others too. And next to her is Merle who makes great sandwiches. My favorite was the Machu Picchu. It is chicken, cheese, egg, avocado, tomato, lettuce, and onion on fresh baked bread. YUM!
Favorite Ice Cream
La Esquina Cafe Heladeria is my favorite ice cream shop. They make their ice cream with local flavors. The texture of the ice cream is creamy not icy. Tuna is my favorite. It is a cactus flower not a fish. They have excellent coffee which is hard to find in Cusco. I was told their food is amazing too but I only returned for the ice cream.
Favorite Nightclub
Ukukus was my favorite place to go dancing, especially on Tuesday and Sundays when Amaru Pumac Kuntur was performing. They packed the house. They are local favorites who play traditional instruments mixed with rock guitar and bass. They often sing in Quechua and Spanish. They are fantastic. A must see in Cusco for sure.
Medical Needs
If you have a Medical Problem, Clinicamedicalcusco.com.pe They have centers along the Inca Trail and in Cusco. They speak English and Spanish. I used them and got excellent medical attention with no wait at all. Address: Av. Huascar 221 – Wanchaq They are walking distance from the main square (depending on what your problem is) Phone: 0051 +(084) 285555 Mobile: 0051 987 577080
Money Exchange
Bring credit cards and cash. Make sure you have a PIN for your credit card so you can take cash out at an ATM. DEBIT CARDS ARE USELESS. Even if your debit card is also a credit card, banks and ATMs will not accept it. The banks around Plaza de Armas can handle US credit card transactions. I brought cash. I changed that cash on Ave Sol at LAC DOLAR Money Exchange. Always count the money you receive BEFORE leaving the window. People make mistakes and short changing is common even in banks. Banks will give you a lower exchange rate then money changers.
TIPS
Do not drink tap water unless you boil it first. When boiling remember you are at altitude so it boils at a lower temp. Let it boil for a few minutes. Of course bottled water is fine. Ask restaurants about their ice and how they wash their raw veggies.
Do not flush paper in the toilet. It goes in the waste basket. Only human waste in the toilet. Their sewer water goes straight into a river.
All the tourist areas of Cusco have cameras everywhere that the police monitor. There are different types of police. The ones in the bright green vest/jackets are specifically there for tourists. If you have a problem, ask one of them for help.
